A conversation with: Cristiana Tiberio

A conversation with: Cristiana Tiberio

Cristiana Tiberio has been the sole winemaker at Agricola Tiberio since 2011. Agricola Tiberio was first established in 2000, when Cristiana’s father Riccardo discovered an old plot of Trebbiano Abruzzese vines. Alongside her brother, Antonio, they have managed their family’s 30 hectacre (74.13 acre) estate in the Italian region of Abruzzo since their father passed down the responsibilities in 2008. While discussing wine has always been a part of the Tiberio family’s dinner table culture, Cristiana gained experience through a degree in chemistry and training experiences in Champagne and Australia. Agricola Tiberio is home to some of the oldest vines in the Abruzzo region, including the rare (despite its name) Trebbiano Abruzzese, thanks to Tiberio’s pioneering of massal selection, where cuttings from older, healthy vines are propagated to establish new vines.

What inspired you to become a winemaker?

I grew up in a family where wine has always been part of our culture and tradition. Wine has always been considered part of our meal. Sipping wine and talking about the origin of those wines, the grape varieties, and the areas where they were from offered me a deep point of view on the wine world. The fist wines that really impressed me for their meaning and connection with their identities were Giacosa’s wines.

How long have you been making wine?

I started making wines in 2004 when, with my brother Antonio, we were finally able to revive some old, abandoned vines (70 years old at that time).

What would you be doing now if you weren’t in the wine business?

I would be an Abruzzo Sheperd dog breeder, a native Abruzzo dog.

Whom do you most admire of the great winemakers of the past and present?

So many wine makers, Anne Claude Leflaive has represented an inspiration for me, Bruno Giacosa has been the one who offered me a different point of view on wine and changed my destiny.

In recent time I love and admire Cathy Corison, Jeremy Seysses from Dujac, and Tegan Passalacqua from Sandlands and winemaker at Turley as well.

What are the 3 most important things a winemaker should remember?

We are part of our terroir; our decisions depend on the vintage and the current conditions of the fruit and vine.

We don’t have to shape the wine according to a preordained intention and project.

Which do you think is the most underrated wine region?

Abruzzo has been underrated for a long time, and it’s now being reconsidered as a quality wine region. But I think we still have to work hard to get to the level of understanding that Abruzzo and its terroirs deserve.

If you could make wine anywhere in the world (apart from Abruzzo) where would you go?

It will be Oregon, for its cool climate and different amazing geologies.

Which of your achievements are you most proud of?

Reviving the Trebbiano Abruzzese.

What would you have done differently?

I would have done exactly the same, not because everything I did was right and perfect but because everything is part of my experience, and I learned a lot from my mistakes. Exploration with the respect of our environment is very important and let us to move forward.

For example when I discovered some old ungrafted vines in my property I propagated them, I made massal selections and I planted them ungrafted in a separate portion of land with sand. But after few years these young vines were not able to survive ungrafted.

What qualities do you most admire in a person?

Kindness, an open mind, the capability to push your vision beyond the difficulties and comfort zone.

What is your main fault?

As winemaker sometimes I need isolation. In the vineyards and in the winery during some tastings I need to be alone. I’m very happy to share and I’m grateful to have an amazing team to share things but in separate moments.

What’s your favourite restaurant?

It’s very hard to say one name because I’m a food and wine person. But, Osteria Francescana in Modena.

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