| For Marco Nardi, restaurant general manager and head somm at Surrey’s Lavershot Barns, Californian wine was love at first sight. He makes the most of his communication skills to evangelize sceptic guests while maximizing all opportunities to widen his understanding of the region.
‘My experience with Californian wine began in 2015, when I first moved to England. I was lucky enough to work in a large hotel with a very international menu, which stimulated my curiosity and broadened my horizons.
‘During a dinner service at the hotel, a French guest asked me to suggest a red to pair with his côte de boeuf, adding that his favourite varietal was Cabernet Sauvignon. Upon my arrival at the table with the bottle, he immediately asked me which area of Bordeaux the wine I had chosen came from. I still remember his amazement and disbelief when I explained that I had selected a Stags Leap Cabernet from Pine Ridge Winery.
‘I justified my choice by describing the wine’s aromas and flavours, but what I think made a long-lasting impression was the story of Pine Ridge itself. I described the different vineyards within the different sub-zones that the company owns in Napa. My animated and passionate explanation made that guest interested in Californian wine for the first time in his life.
‘From that moment on, he would ask me to introduce him to a new American wine at every new visit to the hotel. This episode gave me the opportunity to deepen my study and understanding of Californian wines, which I now take with me everywhere I go.’
Meanwhile, taking cues from Spurrier’s 1976 Judgement, California-lover Jan Van Heesvelde of L’Enclume restaurant in the Lake District resorted to blind tasting to convince his cynical peers of Californian wine’s worthiness and stature.
‘One day we were doing a tasting with world-class wines only. I was setting up and began opening a few bottles, including Harlan Estate from California, Petrus from Bordeaux and Mugneret-Gibourg from Burgundy.
‘One of my best friends was there. He did not like Californian wine so I came up with a diabolical plan to change his mind. He saw me opening a bottle of Petrus and went: “Can you get me a taste? I’ve never tried this wine.” I said I’d bring it to him. I kept on opening bottles then took a Harlan Estate 1998. I opened it. Tried it. The wine was brilliant as always. I poured a sample to taste, went back to my friend and said: “Here’s that taste of Petrus you asked for earlier.” He immediately thought that the wine was amazing, so I told him: “Well that’s Harlan Estate 1998 mate. Now I don’t want to hear you saying Californian wine is overrated anymore!”’
Jacopo Mazzeo is an independent wine and drinks journalist. He writes regularly for a number of trade and consumer publications including Wine Enthusiast, Harpers Wine & Spirit, Whisky magazine and The Drop. Jacopo is a former sommelier and can be found at JacopoMazzeo.com.
You can learn more about California wine in the Académie du Vin Library’s latest publication, On California: From Napa to Nebbiolo... Wine Tales from the Golden State, released on 25th October. This groundbreaking book collects together stories of California’s great wine journey, from the past to the present (and future) told by a team of internationally renowned wine writers.
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