Matt Walls is a freelance wine expert based in London. He’s a contributing editor to Decanter and writes regularly for timatkin.com and Club Oenologique. His first book, Drink Me!, was published in 2012; in 2018 he moved to the Rhône Valley for two years to research and write Wines of the Rhône, which was published by the Classic Wine Library in 2021.
How long have you been writing about wine?
I started writing about wine around 2007. I was working for an importer, and when I told friends that I worked in wine, I’d receive a barrage of questions – often the same ones. People of my generation didn’t know where to look for wine advice, so I decided to write a guide. My original plan was to give it away for free, but by the time it was finished it was quite long, so I contacted a few publishing houses, and it turned out that Quadrille was looking for a wine book for their New Voices in Food collection of previously unpublished food and drink authors. So they took my first book, Drink Me!, which was published in 2012. I was lucky - right place, right time.
What’s your very first memory of wine – how old were you, where, when and what?
It was nothing grand! We didn’t drink much wine at home when I was growing up, but sometimes we had a bottle of red with Sunday lunch. I remember the first time my parents had an Australian wine when I was about 12 years old and they let me have a small glass – it was a Rosemount Cabernet Shiraz. I didn’t realise wine could be so vividly delicious.
Which do you think is the most underrated wine region?
Exploring unfashionable regions like Sherry, Alsace and Sauternes is always rewarding for those with an open mind. In terms of bang for your buck, there are some incredible bargains in the Loire, Côtes-du-Rhône and northwest Spain. Switzerland and Eastern Europe are relatively unknown in the UK but well worth discovering.
If you had to drink wine from one region for the rest of your life, what would it be?
The Rhône of course! With the north and south you get two regions for the price of one – and dozens of grape varieties to keep you interested.
Who is/was your mentor?
I’ve never had a mentor as such, but I learn a lot from reading the work of Andrew Jefford.
Which of your achievements in wine and elsewhere are you most proud of?
Winning ‘Best Newcomer’ at the first Fortnum & Mason Awards for my first book felt like a special moment, as it gave me the confidence to move into writing full-time. Outside wine, DJing live on radio in my 20s took me out of my comfort zone, and reaching a decent level of competency in ninjutsu a little later on felt like an achievement considering how uncoordinated I am.
What would you have done differently?
I would have bought more grand cru Burgundy when it was relatively affordable.
If a handbag can be worth £30,000, then so can a wine. Discuss
A good thing I’m not into handbags as well…
Which is more important in a wine, aroma or texture?
It has to be aroma – that’s primarily where the complexity of wine is to be found. And it’s the aromas of wine that rummage around in your memories looking for past sensations and forgotten moments to pull out like lost polaroids.
What’s your motto?
I just want to help other people get the same enjoyment out of wine that I do.