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Beyond the volcano: Sicily’s other wine regions

Etna is rightly famed for its wines, but there are vinous delights to be discovered in the south and western regions of Sicily, says Robin Goldsmith.

Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is blessed with excellent conditions for grape growing. Most of the island is hilly or mountainous, with mineral-rich soils and a Mediterranean climate of hot summers and mild, wet winters, with large differences between day and night temperatures.

Wines made from Nerello Mascalese and Carricante in the high-altitude, volcanic soils of Etna have been gaining increasing international recognition - but the island offers so much more.

Its western and southern regions, for example, have both indigenous and international grape varieties more suited to the varied clay, limestone and sandy soils and sunny, arid climate.

These include Nero d'Avola and Grillo, Sicily’s most widely planted red and white grapes, as well as Catarratto, Inzolia, Frappato, Perricone and Syrah.

Nero d'Avola, known officially as Calabrese, produces a variety of styles, ranging from light, almost Pinot-like examples to lush, full-bodied, more tannic versions. If planted on sandier soils, floral and spicy notes develop; clay soils can give more richness.

Grillo, a crossing of Catarratto and Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria), produces lighter wines with citrus freshness, sapidity, floral and herbaceous notes; some can be weightier or more textural.

Both these grapes are versatile. They can produce very good wines from dry to sweet, still or sparkling wines. Expressions vary significantly between producers, with many using international grapes to add a different dimension and give wines more global appeal.

Two wineries, Mandrarossa and Feudo Montoni, favour styles that express the vibrancy of their grapes without heavily concentrated fruit or overt 
oak flavours.

Mandrarossa Grillo 2024, from the south-west, is a light, refreshing, fruity Grillo with a touch of salinity. Its single-varietal Fiano, Grecanico and Vermentino expressions also emphasise fresh, bright and crisp styles. The winery's Nero d'Avola 2024 is similarly light, clean and vinified in stainless steel. It's a good example of an unoaked, fruity Nero d'Avola with a mineral edge, that could be lightly chilled before serving. Their multiple award winning Cartagho Nero d'Avola 2021 is more intense and complex but maintains a good balance between fresh acidity and soft tannins.

Feudo Montoni, a historic estate in Cammarata, central Sicily, where wine has been made for over six centuries, uses minimal intervention which results in wines that are distinctive, balanced and retain a light touch reflecting the natural character of the grapes.

The winery’s Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia demonstrate this approach perfectly. For example, Grillo Timpa 2024 is refreshing and clean with floral and citrus notes, while older vintages add extra complexity, remaining bright, pure and refined. Nero d'Avolas are similarly impressive. Lagnusa 2023 is fresh, light and fruity with gentle herbs and spice. Riserva Vrucara 2021 and 2020 are more complex, made with an unusual technique of macerating 25 per cent dried grape stems for around 60 days, prior to maturation, to “extract the warm tannins,” says owner and third-generation winemaker Fabio Sireci.

Although young with great potential to age, the mixed berry, herbs and gentle wood-derived notes never feel extreme. Nerello Mascalese and Perricone expressions are also fresh, characterful and precise.

Duca di Salaparuta, in south-central Sicily, is one of Sicily's most renowned and oldest wine producers. Its style of Nero d'Avola is richer and fuller, particularly the iconic Duca Enrico, the first single varietal expression, created in 1984, which was instrumental in putting Sicilian red wine on the global map

The warm 2021 vintage resulted in a punchy 15% ABV, but fresh acidity keeps this in check. Kàdos Grillo from Salaparuta’s western Sicily estate, although only 12.5% ABV, has a noticeable oak influence that gives it fuller mouthfeel. Additionally, among the many grapes they grow in these two sites (as well as their Etna one), they make wines from Inzolia and Zibibbo and have high hopes for their fresh, fruit-forward Vermentino. 

Many of these wines are available in the UK from selected independent wine merchants and online retailers. 

Robin Goldsmith is a food and drink journalist and judge. He is also a drinks presenter at wine clubs and on top of his very own World War II bomb shelter. You can read his musings at thewritetaste.co.uk.

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