Back to Vinosity

The Best Places to Drink in Sardinia

Isolated from mainland Italy by the Tyrrhenian sea, impenetrable landscapes and closed-off communities, Sardinia is an island that for millenia has resisted outside influences.

A man and woman cook at a masonry oven.

Su Gologne Experience Hotel

As far as wine is concerned, the result is a fascinating - and still largely unknown - oenological world to explore.

There’s thick-skinned Cannonau grapes and their powerful antioxidant properties, thought to contribute to Sardinia’s ‘Blue Zone’ status. Crisp and zesty Vermentino di Gallura – currently the region’s only DOCG appellation – that takes on the aromas of northern Sardinia’s granite soil and coastal herbs. And among these grapes, all sorts of mysteries and folklore: the strange Granazza vines (a distant cousin of Grenache, with some genes in common with native Calabrian grapes), planted seemingly at random among historic Cannonau vineyards. The presence of unique indigenous varietals like Torbato, Cagnulari, Monica, and Arvisionadu. And the distinctive minerality imparted by the island's terroir, quite unlike any other European wines.

For a first time visit to northern Sardinia, a trip to Surrau Winery provides an accessible overview to both red and white wines from the region. The family-run vineyard started in 2001 with just a couple of hectares of old Vermentino vines inherited from the Demuro brothers’ grandfather. By 2004, they’d bought up several small wineries and parcels of land across the Surrau valley, and begun growing not only white varietals but also Cabernet, Carignano, Cannonau, Bovale and Mauristeddu.

The inside of a restaurant dining area with a tropical backdrop.

Le Grand, Cala di Volpe

Despite its youth, this is now one of the best-established wineries in northern Sardinia, producing over 100,000 bottles a year and exporting them all over the world. In the swish, California-esque tasting suite, book in for a wine flight. You’ll start with fresh and zesty Branu and Sciala Vermentinos, moving onto the late harvest Montidimola Vermentino, various Cannonau expressions and three different ‘Isola dei Nuraghi’ IGT blends.

To really gain an understanding of Vermentino di Gallura and its deep connection to this region, however, you have to visit the neighbouring Capichera Winery, founded by cousins of the Surrau dynasty in 1980.

Like many farmers in Sardinia, the Ragnedda family had in reality been harvesting grapes on a domestic scale for generations, selling them to a local cooperative in return for bottles of wine. When the Costa Smeralda was first put on the map as a luxury holiday destination in the seventies, they spotted an opportunity: excellent wines, like those long-appreciated by visitors to Provence or Tuscany or even the Amalfi Coast. After several years of careful experimenting, Capichera was the first winery in Sardinia to age Vermentino in French Barrique to any success.

Tastings take place either in their state-of-the-art new winery or on the lawn overlooking the vineyards. The yield is low, only 35% of what they could get from the space, meaning the quality can be exceptionally high. As you sip your way through their range of whites and a newly launched rosé, test tubes of coastal shrubs myrtle, sea rosemary and helichrysum (said to be the ‘fragrance of Sardinia’) are brought out as scent references. With each wine, a different canape is served: local pecorino cheeses, cured meats, burrata with crispy suckling pork, and the island’s famous pane carasau.

Across northern Sardinia, there are several restaurants serving outstanding local wines: the legendary Cala di Volpe have their own vermentino label, best sipped from Le Grand terrace overlooking superyacht tenders cruising in and out. A little further down the coast, Ami in Porto Rotondo and Ristorante il Portolano both focus on Sardinian wines, with the latter having unbeatable views over the tiny island of Tavolara at sunset. During Porto Cervo Wine and Food Festival each May, tastings and talks are held by several local wineries, and it’s a great way to discover smaller producers.

Two wine glasses and a neatly folded napkin against a white wall backdrop with colourful images and banners.

Travelling down Sardinia towards the center of the island, you reach Barbagia, the harsh terrain where Cannonau grapes grow best. Book in for a winery tour and tasting at Sedilesu, an organic, family-run winery in the village of Mamoiada. I visited a couple of days before three weeks of intense harvesting begun, and the excitement was palpable: crate upon crate waiting to be filled, and the giant aluminium vats sparkling.

Though they’re loathe to jump on the ‘natural wine’ trend, Sedilesu’s practices havealways been very low-intervention. No chemicals or pesticides are used at any point, the yeasts are wild, and the level of sulphites added are a fraction of those allowed under the ‘organic’ certification. How about biodynamic practices like following the lunar cycle? “There’s no science behind it, but we do believe in our old people so we follow it just in case,” my guide Luca tells me with a smile.

A table and chairs outdoors against an early evening sky near the water's edge.

Le Grand, Cala di Volpe

Cannonau wine by nature is full bodied and robust, pairing well with the hearty stews, suckling pork and mature cheeses like pecorino enjoyed in Sardinia’s rural interior. Our tasting begun with a couple of younger, tannic bottles giving notes of currants, pomegranate and malt loaf, moving all the way through to their ultra-rare 2010 Cannonau Riserva; a true meditation wine with flavours of myrtle berries, pipe tobacco and dark chocolate. It was the best vintage they’ve had to date, and there are only 350 bottles left in existence, though Luca is hopeful there could be another one in the works.

In central and southern Sardinia, head to the capital of Cagliari for countless wine bars and enotecas. If you only have time for one, Cucina.eat serves a huge selection of Sardinian wines by the glass. Inland at Su Gologne, authentic and immersive cooking (you can watch traditional breads being made over the fire) are paired with wines from the estate. And at the furthest tip of the island near Pula, Fradis Minoris has recently been awarded a Green Michelin star, and champions small winemakers with a focus on sustainability. Of course, you don’t always have to seek out elevated establishments to get a good flavour of Sardinian wine. The Vermentino and Cannonau you’ll find in agriturismos – restaurants on local farms serving up traditional Sardinian fare – is generally quaffable, often produced within the farm itself and served in big ceramic jugs.

Phoebe Hunt is a freelance journalist, author and content writer. She is the co-author of Florence Like a Local and Lonely Planet's Florence & Tuscany Guidebook, and is the former Editor-in-Chief of Tide Magazine.

Grape vines outside at a vineyard.

The Sedilesu Winery

Related Products

  • Jumbo Shrimp Guide to Italian Wine

    Jumbo Shrimp Guide to Italian Wine

    Jumbo Shrimp Guide to Italian Wine

    Various authors, Ed. Mama Jumbo Shrimp

    £9.99
    £9.99

Related Posts

  • The Best Places to Drink in Sardinia

    The Best Places to Drink in Sardinia

    Isolated from mainland Italy by the Tyrrhenian sea, impenetrable landscapes and closed-off communities, Sardinia is an island that for millennia has resisted outside influences. As far as wine is concerned,...

    The Best Places to Drink in Sardinia

    Isolated from mainland Italy by the Tyrrhenian sea, impenetrable landscapes and closed-off communities, Sardinia is an island that for millennia has resisted outside influences. As far as wine is concerned,...

  • Biodynamics: truth or magic?

    Biodynamics: truth or magic?

    Biodynamics: truth or magic?

  • The Chinese White Revolution

    The Chinese White Revolution

    Chinese wine drinkers are moving from old-fashioned reds towards whites and sparkling wines – and producers are enthusiastically experimenting with lighter, fresher and even orange styles

    The Chinese White Revolution

    Chinese wine drinkers are moving from old-fashioned reds towards whites and sparkling wines – and producers are enthusiastically experimenting with lighter, fresher and even orange styles